Monday, January 9, 2012

Savings Idea #5: Use. Reuse. Repeat. (then Recycle.)

It sounds so simple to use and reuse what you have until it’s no longer useful. Each time I huddle under one of Granny’s quilts, I’m reminded that recycling and reusing is an old, old idea. When I compare our new modern home’s amenities to the storage and electrical output of our former home, I realize that they didn’t have as many outfits, sets of dishes, or electronics in 1935 as we do three-quarters-of-a-century later. They reused items until they had to be torn apart to be useful, and then they composted the remains out by the garage. Our old home has an in-ground trash bin outside for garbage pickup, which is roughly the size of our office recycling can (maybe 4 gallons). Clearly they used less, and reused more than we do; the lifecycle of their goods was, in many cases, a lifetime.

Over the last decades, retailers have ramped up their efforts, and are constantly trying to hurry that cycle along so that you buy new goods more often, resulting in “can’t live without” upgraded models and planned obsolescence. Many people have bought into this system, and when their shoes get dirty they buy new ones.

Granny’s philosophy was: If you’re going to throw it out, why not try cleaning it up first? Use and reuse until it’s dirt.

Case: My sons’ Robeez slipper shoes, bought with love by Grandma, were serving as the twoddler’s everyday wear inside the house. They resemble moccasins, and after a couple of month’s punishment and a few stomps in spilt milk, the soles resembled banana peels. They were dangerous. So I washed them with soap and water, and scraped the soles with a serrated knife, roughening the soles as ballerinas do. Ten minutes in the dryer on ultra-low, and these leather shoes were ready-to-wear once more. We got two more week’s wear out of them, and I'll donate these refurbished shoes when I get around to it.

If I have something I can no longer use, even if it's heavily used (like the Robeez) but not torn or badly stained, then I donate. Some balk at giving away heavily used goods, but I say to them: "Some poor people just watched their homes with all their possessions float downriver, get repossessed, crumble in an earthquake, or become a really big bonfire." Granny used to say: "Some poor people have nothing at all," and she'd know; she grew up in the Ozarks, and was a self-labeled "dirt farmer" before moving on to better things. People who have "nothing at all" will be glad for some shoes and clothes that aren't completely worn out.

I also buy items that do double duty. Kids’ toys, for example. A simple set of blocks can entertain a 6-month-old as a chew toy, an 18-month-old as a building set… but one with printed letters, numbers, and symbols can be used again to teach when the child is learning the alphabet. Later, the blocs return to their status as just a building tool. Boppy pillows. I collected several of these, I think 4, and they were useful when my kids were newborns. As crawlers, the Boppys came in handy to soften their space. Now, they are perfect first pillows for toddlers. A pillow, after all, is always a useful item around small children. I imagine them at five, snuggling the Boppy’s in the back seat on our way to a theme park.

But here’s why I bring up these Boppy’s: I was shocked to rediscover a use for them when my boys turned 16 months, because I’d gotten locked into the manufacturer’s vision for the product’s purpose. Now, we’re going through about 190 boxes, and I’ve finally got the “leisure time” (during the twoddler's naps) to sort through a couple a day. I can really consider whether to donate the item, refurbish the item (steam an old carpet, fix chipped goods), or repurpose the item. If it's broken or trash, I recycle the components.

Your Assignment: Look around your house and see what you can repurpose, refurbish, or recycle/donate before you buy a replacement.

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Couponing: Where do you find the slippery papers?

More specifically, where do you get several copies of the same great coupon? Because the best way to make a deal work is to find the best deal and beat it to death with as many purchases as allowed by your budget, limits on the coupon (often 4 like coupons for P&G per day), or limits imposed by the store (my local CVS only takes up to 3 a transaction). In Zen Couponing, we stockpile, but it’s a very small pile.

I aim for 4-6 sets of coupon books. That said, if I see (as I do this Thanksgiving), that the black Friday inserts were not only widely unavailable but stolen from my paper in front of my house, then I may go a little farther afield in collecting other coupons. Everyone was ignoring the stack of free P&G inserts over the weekend, which I felt ok about helping myself to late in the game, so I ended up with 14. I aim for a max of 20 in this type of situation. Why 20? Because you can sell the “collection service” and mail them to the winning bidder cheap. But less than 20 of any one coupon is not a large-enough lot for which you can sell your clipping services, if you want to do so. I tried it -- listed 8 sets of coupons on ebay and sold ONE. Not worth the time and trouble, in my book. Still, as a guideline 20 is a really good haul. Getting those P&Gs on a hard weekend where I got few other coupons was satisfying, and will stand me in good stead when I find a really great deal on one of those products. It's a balancing act.

Because 99% of people don’t use their coupons, thieves who rob your paper’s innards – the very ones you’ve bought the paper for – are annoyingly smug. I imagine them thinking, as my old neighbor did about moving my trashcans at his pleasure, that “if you’ve got a problem with me taking your paper/moving your trashcans/trespassing on your property/etc., all you have to do is let me know!” Do let your carrier know, and try to arrange a different delivery location than the public sidewalk. They may be willing to put it in your door, or throw it farther onto the property to discourage petty thievery.

If you do miss some coupons, look in the freebie Gazette paper you normally recycle midweek. The same companies that put out the Sunday paper coupons – Red Plum (RP) and Smart Source (S) – print nearly identical ones for your local paper. You get an advance copy. So go dig last week’s copy out of your recycling bin, and take a look. Other copies of the gazette will be piled up around town, in strip malls, libraries, and public spaces.

Ask for them at stores you frequent. I picked up several at Giant, which doesn’t really print its own coupons. It slaps its label on the MCP, which is a tricky bit of footwork. You can’t use the coupon anywhere else, but neither is it really a store coupon, so you can’t combine it with another MCP. Safeway prints coupons in its weekly circular, available in the Sunday Paper, as do RiteAid, CVS, and other stores. Walgreens also prints its own booklets.

Third, order the Sunday paper. You’ll get the Sunday insert on Saturday, at least with the Washington Post – and by ordering a subscription you’ll save more than a dollar on the cost of a $2 paper. Every week. Right now the Post is running a special (11/11), where you can get a year for 59 cents an issue (70% off!). One common $1 coupon a week will cover it.

Next, you can ask neighbors, relatives, and friends. A recent episode of TLC’s Extreme Couponing noted that 99% of coupons go unused, so people won’t mind donating them.

Dumpster diving may be illegal in your state. Also, diving into dirty papers filled with bugs and possibly the sleeping homeless (paper is warm) is Extreme bordering on Crazy. Be Zen.

Keep an eye out at the store. Tear sheets (pads of coupons attached to the shelves), Catalina Coupons (register printed coupons), ValPaks delivered to your house… all are sources for coupons. These are of course mostly grocery coupons, but the ValPak has coupons for services as well, and often includes restaurant discounts.

Some stores, such as Safeway, allow you to download coupons onto your loyalty card. I haven’t tried this, but it seems like a nice paperless way to do business. It may also reduce errors and “coupon snipping”. However, it doesn’t sound like nearly as much fun.

You can print coupons on the Internet at various sites, but I caution you against allowing crawlers to watch your every move on the Internet. Printing coupons is limited to two prints per computer, so having several computers in our house seemed ideal. But in the end we decided to put my old laptop into service as a sole-purpose couponer. My favorite site is CouponMom, which allows you to view deals, gives you the coupon info., including the pub date, and lets you select deals and print a list.

Lastly, people do clip coupons and sell them as a service to others. That is, they are not selling you the coupon – that’s against the rules and technically invalidates the coupon. Nonetheless coupons are available for sale at various sites, including eBay. I bought the clipping service for 20 $2/2 packs Pampers, and they helped me get that great diaper deal a few weeks ago.

Finding coupons is not a problem. Organizing them might be.....

Thursday, December 29, 2011

Today's best deal! 12/29/11

The Foursquare Promotion is back!

From Foursquare.com:

Shop Small to support small businesses! Load this offer to your synced AMEX Card: Spend $10 or more in one purchase at a participating small business and get a one-time $10 statement credit. Statement credit fulfilled by AMEX and processed within 3-5 business days. Purchase must be made within 24 hours of offer load. Limit one $10 credit across all participating merchants.

To find deals near you, launch the Foursquare App. from your phone. Click on Explore, then click on Specials. It will list up to 30 specials within 10 miles. Look for the ones marked with the AMEX logo.

To sync your AMEX card, go to sync.americanexpress.com

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Couponing: Basics

Coupons come in several types: the most common are Manufacturer’s coupons (MCPs) in those inserts, Catalina machines, and other sources. Then there are Restaurant/Service coupons (RC/SvC, in the ValPak envelope); Store coupons (SCs) in their flyers are often called in-ad coupons. Recently Jon picked up a Macy’s Reusable Discount Card, stiff glossy card with start and end dates. Lastly, you'll find coupons on or in the goods you buy. Stuck on a product, it's a "peelie"; inside the product I would call In-Item Coupon, such as I've found in Pampers boxes, Celestial Seasonings Tea, and Duracell batteries. P&G likes to put coupons for various products in its boxes.

Charity coupons (CCs) on purchased goods are increasingly popular. My binder has a tab for BoxTops for Education (BT4E), and I print a collection sheet, and glue the little suckers on there. When it’s full, I take it to my local elementary school, where the twins will be attending in 4 years or so. Other charities with on-product coupons include the Susan G. Komen Foundation, and Campbell’s Labels for Education. I play Scavenger Hunt in my pantry for CCs. Also, there are Codes to turn in for goods; Pampers' Gifts to Grow program puts labels in its baby products, as does Coca Cola. You enter these online and use the points to purchase goods.

Coupons come in several value groups. I break them down as:

20¢ - 49¢ Low. I’ve never seen a coupon lower than 20¢.

50¢ - 99¢ The Golden Range.

$1 - $1.50 Most coupons these days are $1, usually off two items. Occasionally stores double coupons to $1.99.

$2 – $2.50 These coupons are rare.

More than $2.50 “High dollar coupon”

BOGO —Buy One Get One Free

BOGOHOFF—Buy One Get One Half-Off

Now, which is the most valuable coupon? Most of the coupons I see are for $1/2 items, more rarely $1/1. But some stores will double coupons with a face value 99¢ or less. So an 80¢ coupon is way more valuable than the $1 one, because it’s worth $1.60 at stores which double coupons[i][i]. Occasionally stores (such as Bloom) run promotions where they double coupons to $1.99. Depending on the cost of the item, the BOGO and BOGOHOFF coupons may be High-Dollar. Some stores double coupons to 49¢, 50¢ and up doubles to $1.

Your Assignment: Get some coupon booklets. Booklets are widely available. Most freebie papers include them; these are delivered to your home once weekly, or are available at malls, libraries, and grocers. Some stores put out their own coupon books and fliers, including Target, Giant, Walgreens, Rite Aid, and CVS. Ask for these at the service counter if you do not see them around the store's entry. The most ethical way to collect some spare booklets is to only take one free paper when you pass a stack. Maybe two. Check to be sure the inserts you're after are there. Although I personally feel someone else might want the rest of the paper, this rarely turns out to be the case. I asked about this on a message board, and was overwhelmingly voted down; the consensus -- take the whole paper, not just the inserts, and recycle it.

For us, I aim for between two and six sets of (nearly) identical booklets. The booklets differ by region and source; the Post may have different ones than the Baltimore Sun, slightly, and these may be slightly different than the ones in your freebie paper, all of which may be very different from the coupons in the LA Times. When confronted with the rare but happy sight of a stack of new SC books, I take six. No more. Why six? There are four of us in my family, and I like to share with a couple of friends.

There is no need to be gluttonous about coupons. Pick a number that is roughly equivalent to the size of your family as a reasonable maximum goal. If you want extra coupons for a particular product, there are many ways to get one-offs (check out eBay and printable coupon sites).

Assignment Part B: Once you’ve collected some booklets, look through them. On the first pass, clip coupons for items you currently have in your home, or which are on your grocery list. Use Listerine? Clip that $1 off 2 ($1/2) coupon. Use Trash bags? Clip that coupon. Is “cheese” on shopping list on your fridge? Clip it. And store them in a box (I used a large Ziploc fridge container for a while.) Find Coupons for items on your shopping list? Clip them to the list, and give it a try at your next shopping trip.

Assignment Part C: Use some coupons at your next shopping trip. Part of some people’s resistance to couponing is that it smacks of food stamps. I do it with as much polish and calm as I can muster given mothering twins. It’s just another form of tender. Don’t be nervous no matter how many coupons you have, don’t worry about the people behind you (for large trips or complicated series of transactions, warn them cheerfully), and check your receipt before you leave the cashier’s station, your purchases as you load the car. I've had more than one instance where an item wasn't loaded into my cart, or the coupons didn't post right.

Always remember: It’s a penny earned.

I’ll discuss the various aspects of couponing over the next several blogs.

Basic Terms and Abbreviations:

  • $1/1, $1/2: Save one dollar off one item, one dollar off two items
  • BOGO: Buy one item get one free
  • B2GO: Buy two items get one free
  • BOGOHOFF: Buy one get one Half-off
  • Blinkies: Coupon dispensers found on store aisles
  • CAT: Catalina machine coupons print out at grocers, including Safeway and Giant
  • CC: Charity Coupon
  • CRT: Cash register tape.
  • CODES: Rewards codes found in products, such as Pampers' Gifts to Grow program
  • DND: Do not double
  • ECBs: ExtraCare Bucks, CVS
  • FAR: Free after rebate
  • IVC: Instant Value Coupon, Walgreens in-ad coupon
  • MCP: Manufacturer Coupon
  • MiR: Mail-in rebate
  • OYNO: On your next order
  • Peelie: Peel-away coupon on the product package
  • PQ: Printable coupon
  • PSA: Prices starting at
  • RC: Restaraunt Coupon
  • RRs: Register Rewards, Walgreens Catalina rewards program
  • SCs: Store Coupons
  • SCR: Single-Check Rebate, Rite Aid monthly rebates program
  • UPC: Universal product code or bar code
  • WYB: When you buy


[i][i] Giant and Safeway claim to double coupons every day. Walmart and Kmart double coupons once in a while.

Friday, December 16, 2011

Savings Idea #4: Couponing without the Crazy

For most people, buying food and homegoods (diapers!) are the third biggest expense after their mortgage and car. It’s also the expense with the most flexibility. It's easy to see why people coupon, particularly after nearly a decade-long soggy economy.

Recently I got into the show Extreme Couponing, on TLC. It’s fascinating, and it’s full of tips on how to get the most mileage out of your food budget, and stuffed with drama onscreen and off. I had shied away from coupons for years, but one recent episode asserted that you can get more than junk food. So I tried it. And it’s true.

Those couponers on TLC are… more than a little crazy. All the ones I’ve seen would have to be classified as hoarders; first they hoard coupons then they hoard a year’s worth of goods. I’m not suggesting anyone clear out the garage and install library shelving so you too can have a $20,000 stash of goods bought at less than wholesale. But I do know after 5 week’s research and shopping that you can easily save 30-60% off items for which you have coupons, and here and there you can get an item free. Once I've had the store pay me to take an item home (they accepted a $1/2 coupon for a set of items, one of which turned out to be free at transaction's end; they paid me 50 cents to take it home).

According to the USDA, a family of four with children under 5-years-old spend $800 to $1000 monthly on food. Even on a thrifty plan, they spend $520 a month. With coupons and careful shopping, anyone, no matter their spending level, should be able to cut 30% off their grocers’ bill. In a week. Note that $800 a month x 30% saved = $240 a month saved, or about $3,000 a year. This seems like reasonable couponing to me. My goal is not to be an Extremist, but a Zen Couponer; if you rarely use coupons, consider yourself labeled: Dabbler.

The reason the Extreme Couponers on TLC attract attention is that they go to great – sometimes illegal – lengths to acquire coupons and cheap or free products. The illegal methods are anecdotally interesting, and include a method of using coupons for products other than those intended (coupon fraud resulted in a change in the UPC codes on coupons, to tie them to the intended items). Suffice it to say that trespassing and stealing your neighbor’s purchased subscription are illegal (criminal trespass and petty theft), as is buying coupons (which constitutes fraud in the coupon’s fine print). Dumpster diving may be illegal in your area. Certainly it's gross, and extreme.

Here’s the problem with hoarding coupons: it’s difficult to come by dozens of coupons for the same item, and pair them with the right deal before they expire. I’ve been clipping coupons since late October. The coupon cycle is 12 weeks. That is, most of my coupons expire Dec. 31, no matter when I clipped them. On January first, 90% of my coupons will make a very colorful ticker-tape parade for the babies' second New Year.

Before you get started, commit to Zen Couponing. To me this means having one place in my life where I exert organized control (did I mention I have twins?), and have a little fun while seeing how much I can squeeze out of a good deal for items I really want or need. Zen Couponing is fun; I do not stress over expired coupons, just let them float into the recycle bin; certainly Zen Couponers are savvy shoppers, but they are not so emotionally invested that losing out on one (or many) coupons feels like they "lost a family member", as one Extreme Couponer on TLC's show asserted. Expired coupons make fun confetti; that's all.

Zen Couponing, like many profitable hobbies, is fun, enlivening, and offers ample opportunities for rewards without the extremes reached by Extremists. Zen Couponers buy items they need whether they have a coupon or not, they do not go out of their way to make purchases they wouldn't normally make, and they maintain a small stockpile of dry goods and needful items.
I'm brand loyal. For anything that is going in (food, drink) or on (lotion, makeup, detergent) my body, I am particular. We use only Tide Free detergent, Dreft for the kids, and buy organic veggies, fruits, and meats. Every time I put the boys in something other than Pampers they get diaper rash. However, everything else is up for grabs. Toilet Tissue? Razors? Sponges? Who cares what brand of trash bag you use? You're just going to put trash in it.

In college, one of my professors (Sociology) told our class that almost any product has one of two to five manufacturers. Pick a product: TP, car, shampoo, trash bags, candy. Any product. The number of manufacturers making that product is between two and five. (Test Yourself: name more than 3 brands of anything.) Which means you're likely to find coupons for those major manufacturers' products regularly. Smaller companies, such as Earth's Best (I like their toddler foods and diapers), don't put out coupons, usually. But the large companies put out so many it's easy to create a large stockpile in just a few months.

My question is: Why would you want to?

No one needs 500 rolls of toilet paper in a basement storehouse, unless they’re running a mid-size business, or selling the excess to neighbors and eBayers. I actually wonder if many of TLC's Extremists are actually running small neighborhood stores out of their homes. It's assured no one needs 1000 razors to last them until the next big sale. A three-month supply is plenty for dry goods, a three-week supply is plenty for foods. Meat goes bad even in the freezer after 3 months. Why keep 12 years of detergent when you’ll be moving on from college in a few years? Why paint “The Joneses’ Store” on the door to your hoard of freebies? Why does the show’s announcer refer to these hoards as “minit-marts” and “in-home stores”? Hmmm.

Zen Couponing means keeping it small, manageable, organized, and still save half off goods you normally buy without devoting a room of your house to it. If you have the room for a store in your home -- a huge pantry, a large unused utility room, an empty bedroom -- go for it. Most of us would rather use the space.

The Extremists remind me of the Steven Wright joke: “You can’t have everything. Where would you put it?”

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Savings Idea #3: Earn by Selling

Savers are “scrappers” at heart. It’s a funny old term. Scrapper. My Granny was a scrapper. The dictionary definition is: “a person who removes or does away with scraps,” which fits nicely with my desire to reuse and recycle. It can also mean a fighter. To Granny a scrapper was someone who got down and did the work necessary for earning a living.

The consignment sales discussed last week can be money-makers for you. In 2011, I participated in two Consignment sales for our mom’s group (CAMOM), and earned serious cash for the twins’ 529 Plan. I sell books to a local reseller, and have sold off old appliances rather than letting the delivery guys haul them away (even broken ones can be recycled for cash). I have sold some small items on eBay, though it makes more sense to me to use an intermediary like I Sold It for larger items ($50+) than deal with it myself.

If your community hosts a yard sale day, join! We earned over $200 at each of our last two yard sales for scraps we didn’t want or never used: lamps, building supplies and tools, old bikes, kitchenware, working electronics, and goods NWT sell easily (more about yard selling in the spring). Consignment stores earn you the lowest percentage, but I’ve tried them. Even donations can garner your extra bucks back in tax breaks, but keep careful records.

Scrappers know nothing is scrap. Everything has some value, and it may be worth your time to sell that old appliance on Craig’s list. Have a beat up auto that hasn’t run in 10 years in your yard? Sell it for scrap and get $300 to $500 and have it hauled away free. If a contractor offers to haul off the “scrap” from a job for free, consider carefully. Those holey copper gutters you replaced, brass faucets, and ancient chandelier are composed of valuable metals. Even old wiring has copper in it which recycling centers will pay for. These will earn your contractor a profit at the local for-profit recycling center; insist he leave valuable metals behind for you to recycle into cash.

Stop lugging around those old college texts and half-read books. BookHolders has locations in MD, VA, Austin TX, Tampa FL, and Morgantown WV. Half-price books has locations in various states. Essentially, these resellers will buy your books outright, or list them online and pay you as they sell. Bookholders mails me a check when they sell something. Bookholders will store them, list them for 18 months, then donate or return them. We figure we’ve earned more than $200 since we began lugging our unwanted books to their storefront shop in College Park. Check near your local university for second-hand booksellers.

You can also find resellers for CDs and DVDs, auction houses for old furniture, jewelers who buy the vintage jewelry you never wear, and pawn shops for electronics, valuable coins, and scrap jewelry. Even Amazon will outright buy your out-of-print books on occasion.

Granny used to keep everything for 7 years; if she didn’t find a use for it, she’d pass it on to someone who did. The point is, before you trash or donate something, think creatively. Is it intrinsically valuable (made of a valuable material), or still useable (good items for Craig’s list)? Do you have a place to store items for a yard sale? Before you unload all your old goods into the donation pile, take them first to an appropriate reseller, who will buy what they want and return the rest. If you can’t sell it, or don’t want to, donate the old car to Purple Heart, books to the library, clothes and household goods to Goodwill, and take the tax write-off; for every $100 you create in taxes you get a $30 refund. Just keep careful, honest records! And enjoy the de-cluttering.

Lastly, if you have a blog, monetize it!